Results tagged “tongue”

Dishin': Bite Some Tongue at Rancho Bravo

Lots of talk about Rancho Bravo combined with a tough time with our taxes (and a need to stretch the budget), necessitating a visit. We'd been to the Wallingford truck, but who can resist the "real restaurant" feel of the old KFC building on Capitol Hill?

In the kitchen, Staples and chef-de-cuisine Daniel Newell stick to elegantly presented classics: halibut, scallops, duck breast, lamb loin, braised short ribs, pork chops. But if the devil is in the details, it's also in the small plates. Delicate white asparagus from Walla Walla, asking for nothing more than a simple steaming, is instead poached (barely! barely!) in a broth of salted white wine, and served with an egg foam (classic sabayon), lemon, and fried (why?) capers. Five stalks for $13 (twice the going price for big, fat spears of white asparagus in Europe), you wonder what they're thinking.

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