Opening night crowd at this splendid, brand-new Italian eatery is conservatively dressed, considering the Capitol Hill location. One customer in a tank top, one server with a piercing and tats, but mostly it's long-sleeved shirts of muted stripes. The chef, Justin Niedermeyer, wears a vest. The barman, Gavin Morris, serves Seattlest opening night's first negroni. Sometime later, he makes another negroni, but we spot maitre d' Matthew Lawrence taking it back to the kitchen. No,......