BILBAO, Spain--Steel covered with flowering plants, that's this Jeff Koons sculpture, titled simply Puppy, on the plaza of Frank Gehry's Guggenheim Museum. Sure Seattle's got a Gehry museum of its own, the EMP; sure, Seattle's got Richard Sera and Louise Bourgeois sculptures, too.
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PAMPLONA, Spain--Eight years ago, European travelers and expats awoke to the news that America had elected a new president, that his name was Al Gore. This time, though, it really is a new day.
Pamplona is not Seattle, we can all agree. The bulls run every morning in Pamplona during the ten-day festival of San Fermin in July, which would never work in Seattle.. Blue Angels strafe Seattle every August during Seafair, which would never work in Pamplona.
In Pamplona this week, they're celebrating the festival of St. Fermin. The most famous event, the encierro, played a central role in Hemingway's The Sun Also Rises: the so-called "running of the bulls" through a narrow, 825-meter passage of narrow streets.
We were mid-bite on our Bratwurst Sandwich mit Pommes Frittes ($8) when Spain's Fernando Torres scored the sole goal, and we celebrated quietly with a swig of Franziskaner Dunkel Weissbier. A friend of ours whooped and threw her hands up in the air. She suddenly felt very alone, she mentioned later.

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