We’d been hearing a lot about the new KFC (Korean fried chicken), so we took a drive down to Federal Way (with its little Koreatown) to sample some at Cockatoo’s Chicken Restaurant—a place that, once you find it, is basically a bar with a snack menu. You might think we were drunk, but really it was a case of brain-lock induced by being lost in the Korean-ness of it all. Having ordered some deep-fried wings......