Several years ago, I had the good fortune of spending an evening bathed in moonlight, taking in the sound of the sea, the cool winter air, and more than my fair share of fresh shucked oysters and wine. And I won't lie--it's stuck with me.
Taylor Shellfish Oyster Bus on the move in December
Crab Crackin' Happenin' at Taylor Shellfish on Mondays
If you happened to walk by Taylor Shellfish on Capitol Hill last night, you may have noticed an unusual after-hours happening. No, not a line outside a club. What you might have seen is a not-so-slight man holding a club—a crab club, that is.
Oyster Wines 2010
We're heading into May, the first "non-R" month of the year and so, by folk wisdom, the end of the oyster season. Not so. Oysters are great year-round in the cold-water climate of the Pacific Northwest. (It's those flat-tasting Gulf oysters you've got to watch out for.) But what wine to drink with our succulent local bivalves?
Making Plans: Judging "Oyster Wines"
They call it an Oyster Wine competition; after an elimination round followed by finals in three cities, 10 of the original 130 entries are left standing. It's really more of an oyster promotion, created some years back by seafood marketing guru Jon Rowley for Taylor Shellfish. No matter. The winning wines (5 from Washington, 3 from California, 2 from Oregon) will see an immediate increase in sales at oyster bars around the country.
Yup'ik: Impoverished Servants of the Noble Salmon
The Yukon keta salmon carpaccio comes on a frosty plate, thinly sliced, with fennel and red onion salad, drizzled with lemon oil and smoked sea salt. In the glass, chilled Willamette Valley Vineyards pinot gris. Sublime.
The Mighty Yukon King Falls Victim to Pollock Trawlers
There will be no Yukon Kings this year.
Best Oysters, Best Wines
Puget Sound is home to some of the world's best oyster beds, thanks to cold, clean water and nutrient-rich runoff from the Cascades and the Olympics. Ya got your Kumamotos, your Pacifics, your Olympias, your Virginicas. Yup, Virginicas, "east coast" oysters whose seed was brought to Washington by transcontinental train nearly a century ago, grown on the banks of Totten Inlet. And, get this: in a blind tasting last week, sponsored by the East Coast Shellfish Growers Association, those "west coast" Virginicas were judged number one. "Stunning" said Rowan Jacobsen, author of The Geography of Oysters. Local grower Bill Taylor, president of Taylor Shellfish Farms, was humble: "A thrill to have our oysters appreciated by such an esteemed panel."
Local Treasures
There they were last night, perched at the counter at Steelhead Diner, enjoying a glass of bubbly and gossiping with the chef: Jon Rowley and his wife, Kate McDermott, quietly celebrating their appearance in the new issue of Saveur. The least ostentatious of Seattle's food stars, Rowley is probably the most influential. He's the oyster guru, the peach guru, and above all the salmon guru. No one in town has done more to change the way we eat, or the way our farmers and fishers think about the food they grow or catch.
Move Over, Copper. There's a New Fish in Town
Better believe it, the 25-year reign of the Copper River salmon is over. The new king comes from the mighty Yukon River, and the architect of its ascendancy is (no real surprise) the same power-behind-the-throne, Jon Rowley.
Copper Is Still Gold
Wasn't that long ago, matey, we'd be lucky to see fresh salmon in Seattle. Bristol Bay had a huge sockeye fishery, the largest in the world, but the catch was frozen stiff before it made it to local markets. Now, we're spoiled silly, with fresh, wild salmon coming in from the mouths of rivers all along the Alaska coast: the Yukon, the Taku, the Stikine and, best of all, the Copper.
All The News
-A fishing boat burned up this morning off of Richmond Beach. Six people aboandon ship and Chief Sealth put out the fire.

