Here's to Beer! In the Red

I love sour beers. I particularly love the style know as Flemish Red Ale. For some of you, the idea of an acidic or “sour” beer is something entirely new. Some people, like me, regard it as an old favorite.

Whether you love it or hate it, it is a unique and complex style of ale that enjoys a long esteemed history. The style originates in the Flanders region of Belgium, where the local red ales are matured in oak mash tuns and oak barrels in which acid loving bacteria are allowed to thrive. Pediococcus, Lactobacillus, and Acetobacter all go to work and produce a beer which exhibits acidity from mild to mouth puckeringly dry. Malo-Lactic fermentation often takes place, softening the harsher malic acids into lactic acid. Diacetyl (buttery) flavor may be present in small amounts as well.

It was not long before American brewers began to notice the unique qualities of barrel aged Belgian ales, and attempted to replicate them here in the States. As with wines, the Old World versions tend to be more refined and integrated in their flavors than their New World counterparts. American versions of the style are somewhat brash and over the top in their sourness, with a more angular and citric profile than the soft acidity of Belgian versions. This may be a consequence of new American oak versus old French oak, or endemic, natural bacteria versus bacteria that has been spiked into a batch of beer. So let’s look at some Old World and New World examples of barrel aged sour red ales.

I would be remiss if I did not mention Duchess de Bourgogne. It is considered by many to be the archetype of the Flemish Red style. It is correctly pronounced (Du shay du Bor gone yay) but most people, myself included, simply call it Duchess. It has a mellow, well integrated acidity that is reminiscent of passion fruit, pomegranate, sour cherry, and perhaps a note of balsamic vinegar. Excellent.

Another Belgian example, also in the class of archetype, is Rodenbach Grand Cru. Amazingly complex and refined beer; seek out the Vintage version for a real treat.

As for American versions, one of the first producers to venture into Flemish Red territory was New Belgium, with their La Folie. They still produce it, and it’s still quite good, although I personally find it a bit more on the citric side of the acidity spectrum.

Deschutes Brewing also makes a fine example called The Dissident, which is brewed with Oregon cherries. It is a delicious and complex beer, and it veers towards kriek territory with its emphasis on sour cherry flavors.

Speaking of kriek, you may wish to try Cascade Brewing’s Kriek; a barrel aged ale that also features ample cherry flavor. Cascade is a master of barrel aging, and fans of sour beers would do well to seek them out. They are, in my opinion, one of the only producers which manage to make truly Old World style barrel aged beers here in America. I highly recommend their stuff.

Try your favorite sour red ale with a triple cream dessert cheese, such as Brillat Savarin or Explorateur and a little cherry chutney. It also pairs nicely with chocolate, such as the Cherry Almond bar from Theo. Cheers!