Dress Code: The Good, Bad and Ugly (Mad Men edition)
Welcome to the Dress Code, where we celebrate, critique, commend and (on occasion) condemn fashion trends, shows, designers, boutiques, events and everything in between. From the couturiers and costumers to the retail clothiers and quirky DIY crafters, fashion--good and bad--is everywhere. The Dress Code is where we wear our hearts on our sleeves and write about it all.
This week we're going retro.
The Good: the fashions of Mad Men
Mad Men’s sweeping success is built upon the twin pillars of innocence and malevolence. Partnered with the charm of old world propriety suggested through its vintage aesthetic, is a layer of darkness and eerie mystique. Oppression, shame and inner-conflict is harbored deep within each character—a microcosm of a generation on the brink of revolution. Sexism, masculinity, racism, power, rebellion, lust and purity—these are all motifs within AMC's Mad Men that we see projected through the fashions in the series, and we explored these themes (and other burning questions) with UW alum and Assistant Costume Designer of Mad Men, Allison Leach.
How did you land the amazing job as Assistant Designer for Mad Men?
I had assisted the designer, Janie Bryant, previously on other shows and films. I initially approached her when I was coming out of designing for theatre, dance, and opera and wanting to move into the film and TV world. She designed Deadwood and, with my love of fashion history, I liked the idea of working on historical period projects with someone who had a similar passion.
What is your favorite style from the mid-1960s?
The flattering higher-waisted, slim, no-break trouser for men and the dramatic picture and funnel neck coats for women. These necklines really draw attention to the face. A pair of lizard pumps never hurt anybody either!
In the past seasons of Mad Men, what was your favorite male and female ensemble?
I loved everything that Kurt (the eastern European art department guy) wore. He is more eccentric and fashion forward than the other guys at Sterling Cooper. Lots of mustard, prints, interesting knits, super slim high-water pants, and Beatle boots. When he wore the bolo tie, I could've died and gone to heaven! We even got him a buttery thin LEATHER double-breasted sport coat in cream. Not sure it ever got its moment to shine, but we were obsessed with it.
As for the women, I loved Joan's Halloween dress...charcoal knit with chevroning stripes up top in a persimmon color that really matched her hair. Show stopper!
When we watch MM, what about your style comes through-- what can we see that is of your influence?
As an assistant designer, my job was to reflect the designer's style and seek garments with her vision in mind. Luckily we liked a lot of the same things and after a number of years, you develop a shorthand.
As a costume designer myself, I am still considering the character and the director's vision first, above my own personal taste. Also when working with private clients, it's important to put their style personality before my own.
As for my personal style, I like versatility and experimenting with different historical silhouettes, masculine/feminine personalities and mis-mashing different prints/vibes. I consider it the ultimate compliment when somebody I've met doesn't recognize me because I've changed it up so much since last time!
The series is acclaimed for its historical accuracy, how do you ensure your costumes are so accurate? What are your references and resources? How much research goes into creating each character's garments for the whole season?
We did a ton of research before and during each season, often at the LA Public Library: Books, fashion mags, Sears and Montgomery Wards catalogues, and online too, of course. But a lot of the best research came from old periodicals from the business world of the early 60's: Forbes and the like.
Where do you find the accessories?
We have great costume jewelry vendors in LA: Playclothes, Hubba Hubba, and Palace Costume are my favs. Vendors from out of state would always send fabulous things too. Janie loves jewelry, so she would bring finds of her own and we even used some pieces my grandmother found at estate sales in central California.
When I lived in Seattle, I loved Rhinestone Rosie on Queen Anne and the antique mall in Pioneer Square for awesome finds!
What happens after costume designer, Janie Bryant, and you complete the designs for each character? How are the garments constructed, and by whom? Are any of the clothes vintage finds? If so, what labels and where do you find them?
Janie designs many of the beautiful dresses for the principle ladies and also much of the suiting for the principle men, which is lovingly manufactured by Brooks Brothers. But with the huge quantity of period clothes worn on the show, it's impossible to make everything from scratch. I would comb every source for the best principle-quality vintage clothes to show to the designer. Whatever she loved and worked best for the character, they would end up in. We would also use vintage garments for inspiration and copy the patterns.
When you were a student at the University of Washington, where did you like to shop?
I've always been a vintage shopper. In my Seattle days, I would frequent Red Light in the U District, Wasteland on Capitol Hill, and Private Screening in Fremont. The thrifting is so great in Washington, and I still wear many of my thrift store finds from 10 years ago. One of my faves was an I. Magnin pink brocade maxi evening coat I got for $5 at a Ballard thrift store (which is probably a Whole Foods by now.) That's the best thing about vintage...you know it's not going out of style next year and you know nobody else is going to have the exact same thing.
What are you working on now?
Recently, I designed a supper club in downtown Los Angeles and a film installation for artist Amie Siegal (institute of Contemporary Art Boston).
Currently I am freelance designing for many projects: custom bridal and wedding styling, red carpet clients for the Emmy's, a Redux version of Titus Andronicus, and my favorite new dance show: The Legion of Extraordinary Dancers season 2 and 3 (thelxd.com).
I'm loving the variety of challenges that come from designing for different mediums, and thinking of changing my business name from "Allison Leach Costume Design" to "Fabulous on Demand"!
The Bad (in an irreverent, cheeky kind of way) : Frida’s Trailer
Frida's Trailer in Georgetown
Buying merchandise out of a trunk, or a trailer for that matter, may have had a stigma to it, but that is all about to change. We’re seeing more and more businesses ditch their expensive mortgages, (literally) pick up shop and take its retail on the road. It may not be traditional but it’s anything but trashy. It’s an innovative, business savvy approach to retail, and it exudes a fun, playful, behind--the-scenes--at--Paramount--Studios kind of charm to it. Frida, previously on Airport Way in Georgetown, is one of the first Seattle retailers to take their vintage goods off the shelves and on the road in a vintage camper. Find fun folk art and vintage apparel and accessories at the Georgetown Art Attack on the second Saturday each month.
The Ugly: Living Without Private Screening
When a vintage boutique dies in Seattle, it’s not only sad-- it’s surprising. From thrift stores to antique malls, the second-hand business is a solid one. Supply is cheap and the demand is plentiful. Yet after 18 years of fabulous finds of vintage wonders, we say our “goodbyes” to Private Screening previously located in Fremont. Fear not, retro revelers, Private Screening is still online here.
