Dishin': Smith Serves Up Onions with Dessert

Last month, we told you about the Rocky Mountain oyster sorbet we ate as part of Sound magazine's monthly Dish-Off.

This month, Sound's song title was The Rutles' "Cheese and Onions," and while we knew cheese would be a natural fit for dessert, one of the participating restaurants got props for sneaking some onions in as well.

At Smith, Chef Eliot Guthrie sent out goat cheesecake, which had pleasant tang and texture. The blood orange and sweet marmalade topping, though, was a durian-like experience. Before the food hit the mouth, the nose caught wind of the oniony odor and said, "Oh no you don't." But we did. And while it meant lingering onion breath, the combination actually worked--making the dessert compelling, memorable, and, we have to say, quite tasty.

You can read the full account in the current issue of Sound, at newsstands now (or online). Boat Street Café and Anita's Crepes also participated, omitting the onions and serving up desserts of the sweeter variety for the challenge.