Dishin': You've Never Had Thoa's Version of Steak Frites

Twas a good night at Thoa's Restaurant & Lounge. (Thoa's is pronounced almost like "twas" and is named for the restaurant owner, Thoa Nguyen.)

Thoa treated us to a feast, and as we relinquished control of the menu, we enjoyed an array of aromatic dishes from spicy chili squid to fragrant sweet-and-sour soup to five-spice duck breast. Consistently good with a nice range of flavors.

Sometimes we like to let the restaurant select our food, as we'll get served up something new to us--something we wouldn't ordinarily order. And so it was when out came a plate called "Vietnamese Steak Frites" ($14). We're drawn to Asian restaurants because we want to escape the meat-and-potatoes routine, so were skeptical when we saw the dish, looking a little like poutine with everything mixed together: tenderloin steak pieces, red and green bell pepper slices, onions, scallions, and lettuce and tomato for garnish. Oh...and, of course, french fries. The fries retained some fatty crispiness, but meanwhile soaked up the juices of everything else on the plate. Plus something more. Was that some fish sauce giving it that Vietnamese flair?

We really liked this dish. Comfort food, for sure. Initially we feared it would be a bit boring after the first few bites, but it was compelling, and even addictive. We were reminded of inhaling McDonald's french fries, but with a bonus of those stir-fried flavors, along with occasional, succulent pieces of meat. Throw a little cheese on top, and it would be like eating a deconstructed, elevated burger, done "my way." Vietnamese steak frites is excellent dish for anyone unfamiliar with this southeast Asian cuisine to dip their toes in the water--and the water's warm and inviting at Thoa's.