The Hale and Hearty Steel Cut Oats

Recently, a major renovation of our pantry was conducted in an effort to oust the Indian meal moths afflicting our apartment. We tend to buy our staples in bulk, so our pantry is rife with the kind of flimsy and easily infiltrated baggies beloved among Indian moths. Tearfully, we threw away bags of unused arborio rice, granola, and fun spiral pasta, until at last we came across a tin that had proven sturdy enough to resist the moths: John McCanns Steel Cut Irish Oatmeal. After not insignificant efforts, we managed to pry off the lid to find a pristine cache of the beautiful oats. We could have cried.

For anyone who’s never had steel cut oats (and even for those who have), an oat lesson is in order. Oats are generally processed as hulled whole grains, or as they are called among grain-scholars and food dorks, groats. (Note: evidently whole grains are healthy). Depending on the type of oatmeal, groats are processed in different ways. Rolled oats are pressed between rollers to different thicknesses depending on the desired cooking time: thick cut, regular, instant, etc. Steel cut oats are simply whole groats cut in halves or fourths.

Now this may seem like a minor and/or boring distinction, but it makes all the difference in the world because, you see, steel cut oats are the answer for anyone who has struggled with regular old oatmeal. Where oatmeal is mushy, steel cut oats are chewy and substantial. Where oatmeal is bland, steel cut oats are nutty and satisfying. In other words, steel cut oats are by far the most grown-up, the most sophisticated, the superlative hot porridge.

But there is a catch. Steel cut oats are as strong and hearty as the metal container they come in* and therefore, must be cooked for about 30 minutes. But don’t worry, they don’t need much babysitting. To cook them, bring water, oats, and a pinch of salt (1/4 to 1/3 cup oats per person plus four times the amount of water) to a boil, reduce the heat to medium low and simmer. Drink coffee, do the crossword, stir occasionally, and add more water if the oats look dry or start to stick to the bottom. The oats are done when plump and soft. As for embellishments, all of your old standbys will do just fine. We like our oats a variety of ways: topped with apples that have been sautéed in butter and cinnamon; with dried cherries and toasted almonds and half and half; and of course, with raisins and walnuts. Enjoy.

*The can (available at Trader Joe’s) is useful for moth-resistant storage, but the oats contained therein are in no way superior to the much cheaper ones that you will find in the bulk section.

Photo by Rachael Coyle