Seattlest’s Than Brothers PhO-dyssey

You may be under the impression that Seattle's numerous Than Brothers locations are equal to each other, each serving delicious pho in similarly disheveled and and unappealing dining rooms. We’re here to tell you that you are wrong. Over the past year, Seattlest David and Rachael have exhaustively toured Seattle's five Than Brothers to give you the best, the worst, and most importantly, the goldfish-iest of Seattle’s most ubiquitous of pho restaurants. Today we’ll be providing a brief overview of the distinctive features of each Seattle location. Friday we’ll be back with the first annual 2008 Seattlest Than Brothers PhO-dyssey awards!

University District: The U District Than Brothers is generally to be avoided. Sure, we’ve never actually gotten food poisoning there, but the whole place sort of makes us want to lay down and die: from the dirty tablecloths to the lonely freshmen solo diners, to those creepy posters of four-year-olds kissing; we’d rather schlep to Ballard or Aurora than eat here. That being said, the pho and cream puffs are delicious!

West Seattle: Each Than Brothers' ample windows make it hard to tell how big they are inside; however, West Seattle's feels like the largest of the group. Located a little past the Junction, this outpost definitely has the fastest service. Almost before you sit down, water has been delivered and an expectant glance is given by the waitstaff. This pressure won't crack wily veterans, but those new to the Than better be ready to go.

Aurora: Those heading up Aurora looking for something hot to put in their mouth have many options--we suggest this Than Brothers location. Don't let the row of abandoned storefronts fool you, all businesses on their block are open for business. This particular location greets you with the comfort of a neighborhood dive bar. There is nothing fancy here, and they aren't trying too hard (sometimes literally) to make your time a special experience. They are just going to feed you good pho at cheap prices, and that is fine with us.

Ballard: The last time we went to the lovely, new-ish Ballard location, the waitstaff ignored us, Seattlest David spilled his entire bowl of pho on his lap, and there was not a single goldfish in the large and centrally located tank. However, the location on Market Street makes this Than Brothers ideal for Ballard pre-cupcake, post-farmer’s market get-togethers. Also of note: hoisin sauce bottles are always kept topped off and the cream puffs here are consistently filled with a more than usual amount of custard. And thus, all sins are forgiven.

Capitol Hill: In the shadow of new condos, Broadway's Than Brothers fares forward where others (Taco Bell, Safeway, Bartells) have failed. Unlike the U District poor student crowd, north Broadway is home to Seattle's sophisticated poor. This location is where you will find the best-dressed Than Brothers customers, be they ironic hipsters or tweed-and-wool readers. One can't help but feel a little more scenester watching them sip their soup and add more hoisin sauce.