The Green Faerie Alights at Polar Bar
There's a bit of a disconnect at the Arctic Club Hotel, which has its ambitious gastronomic restaurant & bar, called JUNO, one level below the hotel's lobby & lounge, called Polar Bar. If you've come for the absinthe, you can't just wander into JUNO from 3rd Avenue and slide onto a stool; you've got to be aware that the Green Fairie awaits upstairs, past the hotel's reception desk.
We attended the hotel's grand opening last week and wound up our visit with the absinthe ritual conducted by barman Viktor Kustov. Slotted spoon placed over absinthe glass, sugar cube placed on slotted spoon, Lucid absinthe poured over sugar cube and into glass, sugar cube set afire, then extinguished by drips of icewater from absinthe fountain. Impressive ceremony, even if the result is nothing more than a cool, watery, licorice-flavored drink. Certainly doesn't taste like a dangerous poison.
Contrary opinion from local cocktail historian Robert Hess. Here's what he reported in an email to Seattlest:
Apparently the manager at the Polar Bar is under the misconception that there are two proper ways of serving absinthe, the French way "sans feu", and the "Czech" way in which the sugar cube is decimated by fire. In truth, there is only one proper way to serve real absinthe, which is to slowly drip ice-cold water over a sugar cube which is suspended via an absinthe spoon over the glistening green elixir waiting below. As the cold water slowly dissolved the sugar, it also invokes a reaction in the absinthe and the oils suspended transparently within the clear green liquor gradually drop out of suspension, which results in a milky opalescent cloud which forms in the glass. This is commonly referred to as "louche", and in a properly made absinthe, it is a lovely and anticipated result of this relaxing ritual.Trouble came because real absinthe wasn't available...the substitutes wouldn't "louche" properly, so, says Hess, bars added the flaming sugar cube. "Such a classic and elegant location, deserves to be serving drinks which are equally classy and elegant." For more details about "real" absinthe, how to find it, serve it, and enjoy it, Hess recommends the FAQ at the Wormwood Society's website.
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