Seattle to Portland: The Mima Mounds

This is the third part of a series that follows the Group Health Seattle to Portland Bicycle Classic along its route, and explores the history and transformation of the Pacific Northwest through the communities and stops along the way. See here for part 2.

Twenty minutes south of Olympia we take exit 95 off I-5 towards Little Rock. The road changes name a couple times until we're on 28th Ave SW, which ends at Waddell Creek Rd. SW. This was the closest point we could map to where we were going: the Mima Mounds Natural Area Preserve. From here, we take a right and drive down Waddell for about a mile, just like the article in the Times told us, and then just barely noticed the turn in time.

The mima mounds (pronounced with a long "i" sound) are invariably described as "mysterious" and "strange" though in reality they're anything but. Also known as hogwallows, they're a formation of soil mounds in uniform groups covering large areas, found in various places around the globe including China, South America, and Africa. The Washington ones are about 30 feet in diameter and maybe ten feet tall, tops, though their age suggests that years of weather have substantially reduced the size of these piles of nutrient rich soil atop sedimentary material. Dated from between 6,000 and 9,000 years old, there are numerous theories of their origin: It's common to assume that they're the result of glacial activity, as is most of the Northwest's odd geography, or from large flood activity (another aspect of glacial activity, technically) like the Missoula Flood.

But this theory has run into the problem that not all global examples could be explained by glacial activity. Alternate theories include seismic activity (which faces the same problem, since not all mima mounds occur in areas of powerful seismic activity) and, most interestingly, some have suggested they're the result of Pleistocene-era gopher colonies. While no gopher remains have been found in mima mounds, some scientific research does support the theory on the basis of remains of beetles which are typically found in rodent burrows.

Aside from the odd topography, the mima mounds preserve is really just a slice of rapidly disappearing Puget Sound prairie. But this too tells a historical tale: We quickly learn from a helpful Dept. of Natural Resources guide that we're standing on the front line of a forest cycle. Most people, of course, associate the Northwest with conifers like the Douglas fir. It's what kept the logging industry going for generations. But before the 19th century, large areas of the Puget Sound were covered in oak forests. The Oregon white oak, unlike Douglas firs, can survive a forest fire. It's comparably quite hardy, living up to 500 years, and on the edge of the forest, looking out over the mounds, we're already surrounded by deciduous trees. The odd sapling even grows out of the top of mound.

"As soon as you clear the Douglas firs," the guide tells us helpfully, "the oaks start
sprouting up. I want to take them all out!" he says, waving his open hand at the rows of fir trees behind him. The oaks need lots of sunlight, and Douglas firs, which grow much taller, easily strangle them out over time. But fire activity on the prairies helped keep the firs at bay.

The story of Puget Sound's oak forests is a tale about man's fragile relationship with his environment. Native American tribes, which harvested edible plants from the prairies, played a major role in the fire activity, even setting prairie fires on purpose, in order to protect food sources. Without this activity, the oak forests would have been overrun with firs long ago.

Yet the fate of the Puget Sound's oak woodlands is tied to the arrival of the pioneers, who used oak as firewood and for building, and replaced it with more profitable Douglas firs for the timber industry. By the end of the 19th century, most of it had been wiped out. Just one more sign of man's destructive and transformative power over the world around him, but one which points out how little we notice, how blind we really are to our impact on the environment: How many anti-environmental activists point to the fir forests around the Northwest to demonstrate that there's more than enough trees, we can surely cut some more down, without ever asking whether the trees he sees are the ones that are supposed to be there?

As a cruel reminder of just how much we've encroached on nature, and a possible explanation for the Mima Mounds Natural Area Preserve's relative obscurity, a gun club is located a short distance away with a busy firing range. The rapport of gunfire echoes across the mounds with such a frequency it sounds like you're in a war zone. A sign in the parking lot helpfully explains their proximity, and assures visitors they're firing away from where you're standing.

Monday: Wagons East from Tenino.

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Comments (3) [rss]

It's funny, I just learned about the mounds about a month ago and now suddenly they seem to be popping up everywhere. I'll have to check them out next time I'm in the area.

How exactly are they "anything but" mysterious and strange? We still have no solid hypothesis one why they show up around the world. Sounds at least mysterious to me.


They're not 'mysterious and strange' when you see them. They're kind of mundane. It's only when you start thinking about it that it really strikes you how weird the whole thing is. Don't get your hopes up - you're not looking at a stunning piece of nature here. More like a weird, oddly beautiful piece.

I stopped there on my way back from STP (Sunday around noon). I have never heard so many gunshots in my life. There's also an echo in the area the magnifies the sound - for some reason the echo sounded louder than the original blast. Really a drag. Next time, I'm going mid-week, in hopes that some of these shooters actually have jobs. Yeah, I know.

Bilco put it well. It's also a lot more awesome checking it out from the air.

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