Dinner at McCormick & Schmick, the seafood chain, to kick off eight-month halibut season. Exec chef in Seattle, Eric Naruszewicz, a Boston transplant who was quick to get the hang of local seafood, crusts a halibut filet with curried cashews, serves atop field greens with honey-mustard vinaigrette, Asian pears and red grapes.

There's lots of halibut out there, a whopper of a fish (up to 8 feet long, 4 feet wide, 600 pounds) that lives in deep, cold Alaskan waters. Lives forever, almost. Ugly as sin (flat, eyes on one side) but often considered sacred (the "hali" part derives from "holy," historically eaten on feast days).

Steaks and filets, to be sure, but the best part is the cheeks. Low in calories, high in protein and omega-3 acids. Healthy. tasty critter, flakier than tuna or swordfish. Takes well to grilling, poaching, baking. Holy flatfish!