Leslie's Lasagna

Consider this recent newspaper excerpt, which we'll call Exhibit V:

There's but one non-pizza entree, a wonderful lasagna built on layers of thin, tender noodles, ricotta, provolone and a complex ragu, then baked until bubbly.

Lasagna was layered with a sauce in which the meat was pureed, giving it a funky, almost pasty texture, and the tomatoes had a tinny quality.

"V" receives 3 stars for its food, city-best for a pizza parlor. Alas, poor "S," a Sicilian-style dinner house, gets a humbling 1-1/2 stars, the lowest rating of freelance writer Leslie Kelly's six-month tenure as a substitute restaurant critic at the Pee Eye.

Ah, but it's the same lasagna, Leslie! Made for Via Tribunali by Mamma Enza, the same dish served at her own restaurant, Sorrentino.

Can't be easy, eating out all the time. We understand: tastebuds get confoozled when listening to "That's Amore."