Ballard’s New “Cantina”: Chicken Fried Flop
Seattlest isn’t really a discriminating diner. We don’t have a sophisticated palate. We don’t demand impeccable service. If we get what we order, the food is reasonably priced and tasty, and the wait staff leans friendly, we’re content. We do, however, expect near-perfection from new restaurants. And fair, unbiased criticism from those who evaluate them. After reading a “first look” review of new Ballard eatery Austin Cantina, and subsequently eating there Saturday night with our chicken fried steak-loving friend, we felt duped on both counts.
What they said about the atmosphere: “The restaurant has a warm and open feel to it.”
What we say: The restaurant has an open feel, with bench seating along one wall, a score or so tables spaced parallel to it so that the cool breeze from the open front door—or AC draft from the ceiling—chills both hands and ankles.
Actually, given the limited space, owner/chef Jefe Birkner has integrated kitchen and dining areas nicely. Parties of three or more—of which we were—though, will either wait for one of the two? three? larger tables to open up (we did), or be asked to share one with other diners (we were). (Is anyone truly okay with sharing a restaurant table?)
What they said about the staff: “The service was warm and friendly, if not completely polished yet.”
What we say: Ding! We were seated by earnest Jefe himself, who would check on us several times. Our waitress was bright and genial—and forgetful, misremembering which of us ordered the margarita and that we’d asked for pollo on our tacos, not pork. Not a fatal flaw, but irksome.
What they said about the food: “Our entrees were very good.” The chicken fried steak was “amazing.”
What we say: Our friend, a southern-born craver of grease and gravy, did enjoy the breaded steak and its chipotle potato accompaniment. But he complained that the steak was too thin, the potatoes equally generous, and the gravy scant, too. (“Texas is all about big everything,” he said. “So where’s the big portions?” He threw back a basket of Dad Watsons “cajunized” tater tots half an hour later.)
Our tacos, meat mishap aside, were actually very good. The make-it-yourself plating—separate meat, beans, rice, (apple?) salsa, guacamole, warm corn tortillas—was a nice surprise. But three four-inch tortillas were about three too few.
The fiancée’s Caesar salad, topped with chicken breast, was a brick-solid bust. The romaine was literally dry, and the four small chicken chunks even drier. The three of us were disappointed by its mere appearance; she was let down by its complete lack of flavor. The side of dressing she requested turned out to be an oily green muck she described as “weird.”
And the drinks, though tasty, seemed light on liquor—a problem when they’re $6.95. A much bigger problem when a margarita isn’t salted unless you ask for it.
What they said about pricing: Nothing.
What we say: At $13.50, that chicken fried steak needs more weight. At nearly $10, that salad needs dressing, parmesan, more (seasoned, moist) chicken—in short, flavor. At $5.50, the chips and guac need more chips and guac.
What they said, overall: “I can't say everything was perfect, but … I'd give the restaurant a hearty recommendation. I'm looking forward to going back.”
What we say: Jefe, an apparently very nice, very loquacious guy, might have trouble earning repeat business. We weren’t wooed, and can’t honestly encourage you, if you’re at all like us, to eat at Austin Cantina.
Now, if we’d been offered some on-the-house banana pudding…
