Reconsidering the Beet
Sometime around 1987, we plopped a big scoop of canned beats from the Burger Master salad bar onto our plate, tasted, and then promptly took a break from beets for the next twenty years. Thankfully, in the past couple of years cold roasted beets have appeared on pretty much every Seattle restaurant menu (Full Circle Farms baby beet salad, anyone?) and at last, beets have worked their way back into our hearts.
While canned beets have a homogeneous texture and a dirt-like flavor that will make anyone aged five to one hundred wrinkle their nose in disgust, roasted beets rock. They have a firm texture and a sweet taste that goes well with anything from olive oil and lemon juice to creme fraiche and bacon. And, bad childhood experiences aside, most everyone loves them. Roasted beet salad has become our potluck mainstay and it’s so beautiful (and good at room temperature), we may never make anything else. Ever.
Beets are available year-round and while you can find them at any supermarket, it’s worth checking out the farmer’s markets or a PCC/Whole Foods-type establishment for bunches (with leaves!) of smaller-sized beets and less common varieties like our favorite, the pink and white and utterly beautiful chioggia.
To roast beets, chop off the leaves (don’t throw these away, they are delicious sautéed with garlic and olive oil) and stems; we don’t bother washing, especially if they are organic. Put them in an oven-safe dish with high sides (this could be anything from a pyrex pan that you can cover with foil to an old-school casserole dish with a lid). Add about a half inch of water and cover the pan. Cook the beets in a 375 F oven, checking periodically to make sure there is still some water, until you can pierce the beets with a knife and feel little resistance--if this makes you nervous, you could also lop off a piece and see if it tastes done. Roasting can take anywhere from 30-60 minutes, depending on the size of your beets. When the beets are cooked, chuck them in an ice bath or set them in a bowl under running water until they are cool. Slip the peels off, slice any which way, dress and enjoy.
Photo by Rachael Coyle


