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Read all about it! Celebrity chefs and pretentious wannabes run amok in La Grosse Pomme, get skewered by usually-quite-stodgy New York Times resto critic Frank Bruni.
Not since Gael Greene published parallel views of Le Cirque (contrasting the exquisite food and fawning service when she showed up as her glamorous self with what she received disguised as an out-of-town shlub) have Manhattan's insular kitchens felt this much heat. Mind you, you may have to register to read the full text; worth it, though: You May Kiss the Chef's Napkin Ring.
Good thing there's nothing like that in Seattle. Right?
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I can't believe Frank Bruni is writing this, after giving fawning reviews to tasting menu after tasting menu. It's like Paul Krugman writing that it's annoying when people criticize President Bush, or Johnny Knoxville writing about the increased crassness of our society.