October 27, 2006
Dishin’: Roamin’ for Ramen
We’re crazy about ramen. It might go back to Tampopo, the 1985 “Noodle Western” centered around a ramen shop, with its memorable raw egg and saliva swapping scene. While that movie glamorized the noodles for us, we’d never been to a real ramen shop, instead settling for the 8-for-a-buck version and always wondering just what’s inside those seasoning packets.
Until we went to Japan. No one knows for sure the location of the original Tampopo shop, but we found one that lays claim to the title. It’s in Odawara, about 90 minutes by train from Tokyo; once at the restaurant, we waited in line 90 minutes more for the thrill of slurping our noodles in just under 9 minutes (any longer, and the ramen isn’t as good). It’s a seriously popular noodle shop with seriously delicious ramen. Though lesser quality, we’ve also enjoyed quick bowls of ramen at train stations throughout Japan (a quick way to warm up on a winter’s day). Oh yes… we’ve even ventured to Yokohama to enjoy the ramen museum (the Ramusement Park), featuring exhibits such as instant ramen packages from around the world, a replica of the first ramen dish ever eaten (by a 17th century samurai), and an underground ramen-land, where you can sample some of the endless varieties of ramen from around the country.
Now we have a ramen shop in Seattle. Samurai Ramen opened recently on 5th Avenue South, just behind Uwajimaya. We ordered tonkotsu ramen, a Kyushu version with a slightly thicker and whitish broth that results from extensive cooking of pork bones. It comes topped with a pork slice, green onion, and kikurage –wood ear mushroom that imparts a crunchy texture. We recommend asking for beni shoga (a type of pickled ginger) as well.

Overall, the ramen was good. It had its shortcomings: the pork was a little too thick, the noodles a little too short (they said they’re homemade, but the texture was slightly off and tasted more Chinese than Japanese), and the portion a little too little. For $6, we wanted more, but slurped happily. Like sushi-eating in America, it evoked the feeling of being in Japan and the desire to return there for the real thing. Let’s just say we’re lucky to have something close in quality in Seattle. And afterward, you can always do as we did: duck back in to Uwajimaya to graze for more food – and perhaps some raw eggs for later.



[ report this ]
We had some good ramen at Fu Lin at 512 S. King St yesterday. I had the #14 spicy ramen which had a peanutty broth - it was pretty good. We'll have to try Samurai next - it's in the same area.
[ report this ]
How does it compare to Fu Lin's ramen (one block north, next door to Piece of Cake)? Although that restaurant is ostensibly Chinese, it's noodles seem more authentic than those pictured in the snapshot of Samurai's here...
[ report this ]
Fu Lin is okay, but Samurai is better. Fu Lin's noodles seem even more Chinese, but the big difference is the broth. It doesn't seem authentic. That's based on my comparison to places in Japan, and also the opinions of Japanese people who've been to Fu Lin. A quality ramen shop cooks its broths for many hours to fully develop their tastes. The broths pull their flavors from ingredients like pork bones, dried sardine or tuna, etc. that take time to cook. Many Japanese people (and non-Japanese, too!) also prefer the taste of Japanese-brand soy sauce over the taste of Chinese-brand soy sauce. My guess is that Fu Lin, with its wider menu, "cheats" on time and ingredients for making its ramen. Don't get me wrong: Fu Lin is a decent place for a decent meal. But ramen from a ramen-only shop will almost always be far better. And Japan is fabulous for its specialized restaurants, be it ramen, yakitori, tempura, soba, beef tongue, etc.
[ report this ]
Koji Osakaya in downtown also serves ramen (menu). I'm not a ramen connoisseur, so I can't comment on the quality -- but I enjoyed it, and I would certainly go back.
[ report this ]
Haven't tried Samurai Ramen yet, but O-E-She in Factoria Mall has great ramen. Even my Japanese mother thinks so!
[ report this ]
Thanks, Minoru and ykat, for the recommendations. Will try to check out those places sometime...
[ report this ]
Fantastic. That's some great ramen. It's nice to be able to see the kitchen - it seems like everything's fresh.