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Center of the Cocktail Universe

It's all about the gin, the vermouth, the garnish, the size of the glass, even the temperature of the ice. The folks who know are here in Seattle. Four luminaries on the dais at the Mayflower Park Hotel: from New York, authors Anistatia Miller and Jared Brown (Shaken, Not Stirred), local guru Robert Hess (drinkboy.com), and celebrity bartender Ryan Magarian. Two dozen people in the audience for a seminar on martinis.

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Anistatia Miller and Robert Hess prepare martinis at Mayflower

Surprise number one: the first martini was half gin, half sweet vermouth, with a dash of orange bitters. Botanical elements of vermouth deemed crucial. (In fact, Julia Child drank "reverse martinis," 5 parts white vermouth to 1 part gin. "The perfect drink for swordfish," says Jared.) Order a martini today and all you're likely to get is a giant glass of cold gin (or vodka).

Those sexy, oversize martini glasses? Bah. A cocktail should be of modest size. "It's a 5-minute thing. Drink it while it's still laughing at you," says Anistatia.

There's no consensus among the experts on the "shaken or stirred" question, except that melting ice adds water--a good thing. They also agree that the martini is first and foremost a cocktail, a culinary creation worthy of prime ingredients. "Use fresh vermouth!" says Anistatia. "Measure your ingredients, use fresh ice, pay attention to garnishes," says Robert. "Drink one glass of water per cocktail," says Ryan.

Inevitably, the question turns to "best" spirits. "Do blind tastings," recommends Ryan. For gin martinis, they agree on Plymouth (for its floral edge), though Tanqueray (very dry with notes of lime) is ideal for gin & tonic. Vodka: Ketel One, but Anistatia and Jared have their own award-winning brand, Heavy Water, that's about to go into expanded production. .

"Seattle is a great cocktail town," says Jared. "We say so in our book," says Anistatia. "So's Portland," says Robert.

Related calendar items:

* On May 13th the Museum of the American Cocktail celebrates the 200th anniversary of the first mention of a "cocktail." Kirkland bartender Brandon Williams is among the contestants for best new concoction. Commander's Palace, Las Vegas.

* On June 29th Oliver's, the Mayflower Park's bar and 7-time winner of "Seattle's Best Classic Martini," celebrates its 30th anniversary. Cheers!

Contact the author of this article or email tips@seattlest.com with further questions, comments or tips.

Comments [rss]

  • Steve,

    Cocktail recipes have been "exploding" ever since 1862, when Jerry Thomas produced the first bartender's guide, with only 10 cocktail recipes, a number that -doubled- to 20 with his third edition :->



    Martini's themselves frankly fell upon hard times post prohibition, with 'alcoholics' focusing on getting as much octane as possible, and non-alcoholics not realizing that they shouldn't be listening to them.



    Cocktails should be a "balance" of flavors. A properly made Martini should present a profile in which you can't quite tell where the gin ends, and the vermouth begins. The "modern" Martini is just a glass of cold gin, and even though it might be good, it isn't a cocktail, and it certainly isn't a Martini.



    I've got an entire essay on the history, and modern travesty of the Martini in the journal we (The Museum of the American Cocktail) published last year (http://www.Mixellany.com).



    -Robert Hess

  • Steve T

    I'll have to check out Hess. It's an interesting view. I'm not sure it's just bang-for-buck; the movement towards ginnier martinis proceeded apace right up to the current day; this event you describe is literally the first I've ever heard of a modern mixer going the other way for a change, and sissy drinks have always had a place. I think the deciding factor isn't the "buck" but the manliness. After all, vermouthy martinis were very popular in the impoverished 30s. My daddy, who was a very manly man, drank his "martoonies" in a tumbler, straight gin on the rocks. I imagine the same 1961 bottle of vermouth is still there in my step-mom's cabinet, about half-full from evaporation only. I go through a bottle in a couple of days, straight up in a wine glass before dinner, mmm.



    How does Hess explain the stiffening of martinis during a period when the variety of cocktail recipes was exploding? All kinds of drinks were being concocted, but the martini was being de-concocted.



    Clearly more research is necessary!

  • Thoughtful comments, Steve. Robert Hess, being the historian, addressed those questions in the seminar. Post-war interest in bang-for-buck alcoholic content led to diminishing ratio of sissy elements like vermouth.

  • Steve T

    Is a historical reversal starting here? The history of the martini (a gin drink, please) is the history of shrinking ratios. I have early prohibition-era cocktail books that are all pretty unanimously 2-to-1 gin-to-vermouth. In the 30s you start to see 3-to-1; after the war, it goes to 5-to-1 and higher, culminating in Winston Churchill's famous "bow in the direction of France".



    Modern cocktail books don't put it in terms of ratios; they just say things like "5 drops" of vermouth, in 6 ounces of gin. Most recipes today are around 48-to-1 or higher.



    This is a travesty. Swill your gin straight out of the bottle, why don't you? Vermouth has a bad rap, and is quite delicious all by itself. I think 3-to-1 is just about right, if you want to really keep the gin flavor. Stir, not because of "bruising", whatever the hell that is, but because it keeps the drink clear, not cloudy.



    Small glasses, absolutely -- but good luck finding the damn things. Everybody's glasses are giant 20-oz containers. Ugh.

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