Staff of Life

The original name was Biofournil, which made us think the haz-mat squad might show up at any moment. In fact, it was the first US venture of an extremely successful organic bakery in France, based in Seattle's French sister city of Nantes.

And with that combination of innocence, confidence and arrogance that characterizes entrepreneurs of all nationalities, Biofounil shipped its French bread ovens, French bakers, even a supply of its own sourdough starter to Belltown.

True, they'd picked a residential building--the Centennial, on 4th Avenue--with no parking for customers and no loading dock for deliveries. And the original configuration had room for barely ten seats: not really enough to make it a lunch spot. It took almost six years [yes, entrepreneurs are stubborn], but owner Jean-Yves Fouché finally agreed to remodel...and to rename the place.

It's now called Boulangerie Nantaise; under the new configuration it seats 24. New graphics, new colors, and new packaging, too. They'll do sandwiches, pastries, coffee, soups, just like every other lunch spot in town.

All this might be comical, or sad, depending on your outlook, except for one thing: the signature baguette, $3. It's a terrific loaf, with crunchy crust and a chewy, slightly sour taste. It's got our vote for Seattle's best-tasting bread.

So why not just call the place Belltown Baguette and be done with it?

Boulangerie Nantaise, 2507 4th Ave.
206-728-1874