Relish: Tsukushinbo
Seattlest was in the mood for something new and Japanese this week. We also wanted something inexpensive and nearby. Seattlest heard that Tsukushinbo in the International District was inexpensive and low-key, so we went to check it out. Based on what we had read, Seattlest found Tsukushinbo to be larger and less busy than expected. Tsukushinbo only has seven tables and eight seats at the bar, but it didn't feel cramped or crowded. Our good friend, Safety Sam, quickly pointed out that the lights were precariously supported solely by their wiring. We also discovered that the lattice in the window wasn't anchored, as at one point it nearly toppled onto us. Our general impression was that the restaurant was well-used and well-loved, but not necessarily well-maintained. We found it comfortable, unassuming and not very clean--but oddly, not in an unsanitary way. The food preparation areas were clean enough, but everything else was in need of a thorough dusting.
Sometimes we get a little anxious eating raw fish in restaurants that aren't sparkling clean, so Seattlest decided to order just a taste from the sushi menu: a beautiful plate of spicy tuna roll ($4) and four pieces of unagi sushi ($4 for 2 pieces). The spicy tuna roll was unexpectedly plump and filled with fresh, tasty tuna mixed with just the right amount of heat. The unagi was some of the best we've ever had. The eel was clean tasting and didn't have the muddiness we sometimes experience with unagi. We also noticed and appreciated the absence of those annoying, tiny bones. The eel was perfectly cooked, exceptionally moist and the thin teriyaki glaze was used with surprising restraint. After such an auspicious beginning, we immediately regretted not ordering more sushi.
From the appetizer sheet, Seattlest chose the Kaki-Fry ($5.95), which were breaded, deep-fried oysters. The oysters were almost obscenely ample and meaty, with a thick layer of deeply browned panko crust. If you know anything about Seattlest, you know we're obsessed with foods that are crunchy and crisp. Which was why we were surprised to find the crust too crunchy, with too much panko breading that obscured the taste and texture of the oysters. Don't get us wrong though... we still liked them, they just didn't taste much like oysters.
Quite a few of the non-sushi items sounded intriguing, so we were happy to find an entire page of two- and three-combo dinner options. All the dinners came with miso soup, pickled salad and rice. The miso was a subtle blend that was rich and interesting but not overly salty. The pickled salad was a small bowl of delicious goodness. It had a bit of seaweed and a few shreds of surimi, but the real star was the crisp, paper-thin slices of lightly pickled cucumber.
Seattlest goes back and forth on whether or not we like saba (mackerel). After we tasted the grilled saba dinner ($9.50) it dawned on us that what we really like is the salt. The saba was prepared in Shioyaki style, which usually means liberally salted and grilled. We've found that various restaurants use different amounts of salt and for Seattlest, the more the better (many will disagree with us on this). Tsukushinbo's mackerel was barely salty, which our dining companions preferred, but it left us pining for the salty and crunchy grilled saba at Takohachi.
For our first three-combo dinner ($15.95) we chose chicken teriyaki, grilled black cod and sushi. We were delighted to see it presented in a lacquered box with separate compartments for each item. Tsukushinbo has a solid teriyaki sauce which is very light and just a touch sweet and a touch salty. It was great on the large, meaty pieces of chicken breast--although for some reason we prefer chicken teriyaki on skewers. The black cod was prepared in the same manner as the saba and was fantastic. The cod was oily and rich, and the light hand with the salt really worked well in this dish. The sushi was a small, fresh sampling that included a beautiful deep red tuna, ebi (cooked shrimp) and three slices of a small roll.
At this point we had more than enough food, but Seattlest had already ordered a second three-combo dinner with beef teriyaki, grilled salmon and tempura. We preferred the beef teriyaki over the chicken because it was sliced thin with small amounts of fat marbling which boosted the flavor. The grilled salmon was quite good, but it still paled in comparison to that luscious black cod. The tempura was fantastic; light, crispy and not at all greasy. We were given a small selection of different veggies and two perfectly cooked tempura prawns which Seattlest wanted more of--despite the sensation of being over-stuffed.
Seattlest was happy to have tried so many different dishes, but knew we had ordered (and eaten) way too much food. Because of this (and all the beer) our tab was fairly pricey: $80 for three, before tip. Next time we plan to stick with just sushi and try more of our favorites like salmon, ame-ebi (raw shrimp) and hotate (raw scallop). We will also sit at the bar and chat up the friendly and raucous sushi chef--who apparently is so entertaining that the three Japanese men sitting at the bar were pealing with laughter the whole time we were there.
Tsukushinbo
515 S Main Street
206.467.4004
