Hype and Salmon

It's that time of year again here in the Pacific Northwest, where's a man's fancy turns to...salmon.

Oh sure, you're gonna hear much about Copper River Salmon. It's the one salmon that gets nationwide attention. When you go to your local fishmonger, they're gonna tell you about the Copper Salmon's nutty taste, or how much oil content is in the fish. Then they're going to use these little tidbits of fact to charge you just a little bit more than other salmon they have available.

But Seattlest has a secret for ya'. Much of what you hear about Copper River Salmon is simple hype. To say that Copper River Salmon tastes better than other salmon is akin to saying an apple grown here in Washington is better than an apple grown in New York.

Oh sure, the Copper River Salmon does have a higher oil content than those found below the 55th parallel. The reason for this is NOT due to the particular river that the salmon comes from but rather the temperature of the water. The colder the water, the more oil a salmon has in order for it to maintain a proper body temperature. Biology is a wonderful thing. Last time Seattlest checked, the Copper River wasn't the only salmon river in Alaska.

And that nutty taste they're constantly telling you about? Remove the oil content of the salmon and that nutty taste goes away. Our point here is that the oil content and the taste of the salmon are directly related to one another.

I'm not saying that Copper River Salmon doesn't taste good if not great. It can. But If you like high oil content and nutty flavor in your salmon, Copper River is not the only river in Alaska that can supply this kind of taste for you. If you like your salmon less nutty and more sweet? Look for salmon caught in British Columbia or the Pacific Northwest.

So what should one look for in Salmon? Let's address that, shall we?

Species: More important than the river from whence it came, the species of the salmon better determines how tasty the fish. Sockeye, King and Coho salmon all are found not just in Copper River but throughout Alaska and the Pacific Northwest
Freshness: The more recent the catch, the better the taste. Period. On average, a salmon 6 hours from the Columbia River is going to taste better than a salmon 3 days from the Copper River.
How caught: Fish flesh is a delicate thing. Salmon caught via rod and reel don't bruise the meat as often as catching hundreds of fish bumping against one another in nets.
When bled: The sooner a fish is bled out after being caught, the better.

The point here is that unless Copper River has a very strict standard involving which fish get to have the Copper River moniker (a la Kobe Beef standards from Japan), you can get salmon of equal, if not better at times, quality from other locations. Until such standards are put in place, Copper River is simply a marketing device along the lines of "Angus Beef" - a name put in place to justify charging 10 - 20 percent more than other similar products .

Regardless, it is Salmon season. By any and all means, get out and get some fresh salmon, grill it, and chow down.

Contact the author of this article or email tips@seattlest.com with further questions, comments or tips.

By Kate in Food on May 25, 2005 9:55 AM

Comments [rss]

Tom

You neglected to mention a very important factor in fish quality- length and duration of the spawning location.

Most salmon are targeted as they begin their run up the river, simply because they are concentrated and easier to catch. Salmon quickly lose their food value when they begin sexual maturity. Short rivers, particularly those favored by chums and pinks, often find the fish already mature before they even enter the river.

The longer the river, the fresher the fish must be to withstand the extra journey. Because salmon do not eat when they enter fresh water, they need to pack on enough fat and oil to withstand the journey.

The Copper River is worth the extra dough for many reasons. Many of the fish species located in the Copper migrate hundreds of miles in a HUGE (been there) river, and are some of the freshest and highest quality fish located in any river mouth in the world. The close location to Cordova, AK being served by Alaska Air ensures those fish are delivered fresh.

It is true poorly cared for fish are not worth extra dough- that is why you must trust your merchant to ensure it has been properly handled. It's the difference between say Pike Place Market and Albertson's...

This is also why the mighty Yukon river was quickly targeted. Some of the fish migrate 2,000 miles!! before they spawn. King Salmon from the Yukon are fantastic.

Of course it goes without saying that all fish from the Copper and Yukon are wild, and are not hatchery fish like many found in the NW.

Copper River is not just hype.

Jonathan

Here is the link about organic aquaculture.

Also - forgot to say - great article, Kate!

Jonathan

Eric is right, buy wild Salmon. Fish farming has taken a serious toll on the inland waters of BC. However there has been a lot of development over the years to create an "organic aquaculture" method.

A good rule of thumb for us here in the Northwest is to avoid buying Atlantic Salmon, which has been the choice species of fish farmers to-date.

Eric Berg

The most important thing to know about buying salmon is to avoid salmon raised in an "aqua farm". Just 'cos it's fresh doesn't mean it's good for you or for the environment.

megwoo

Great article Kate!

Dan

Screw that. Keep your worms on your coast bostonist.

I think you're underrating oil content as a measurement of good salmon. I'm all for nutty tastes, but the real benefit is the Omega-3 that the oil contains. I hear that Omega-3 crap is pretty good for you.

Editor DFPS

ugh..

Josh

But it is safe to eat salmon with big worms in it, as I recently learned: http://www.bostonist.com/archives/2005/05/25/whole_foods_1_bostonist_0.php

Kate

D'oh.. good...ahem...catch.

No no... Typical environmental issues should by all means be taken into account. My point here is that out of all of the wild salmon being sold, Copper River can't justify why they are better, when there are other areas in the Pac NW which spawn equally tasty fish.

Equally tasty, non mercury infested, fish.

Editor DFPS

So is it safe to eat river fish due to the increased mercury levels thanks to pro-polluter gutting of environmental laws? I mean I love salmon but I don't want mercury posioning.